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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.